Dales Way

Day Two – 8th April 2012: Grassington (Rest Day)

We had a peaceful and comfortable night and awoke ready for breakfast, which had been booked for 8.15am. The spread provided was first class and we chatted with Julie and Andrew about various things as we ate. They were always on hand but not too intrusive and it was good to talk about their property in Italy, amongst other things.

We were in no hurry to get out as our rest day was supposed to be just that. We sorted ourselves out and left about 10.00am for a wander down to Linton Falls. We had seen them the day before, but not properly, but we also wanted to walk over to Linton itself. The weather was threatening but not raining although we did wrap up and put our waterproofs on just in case. The overnight rain had meant that the river was slightly higher than the previous day giving the falls plenty of water to look good.

Linton Falls

Having taken more photos we walked up the hill and then dropped back down into Linton with its beck running through the centre. We walked around the green, past the pub and explored the cottages. An ex work colleague of mine used to rent a cottage there so I was on a bit of a mission to find it, as we had thought about doing the same, many years ago.


Being unsuccessful in our quest we made our way back to the falls, wandered about and ended up at the church, down the lane, where the Easter service had just come to an end. It appeared that there was an Easter egg hunt in progress around the graveyard with many youngsters searching high and low for chocolate treats.

Linton Church

We ambled back up the lane to the falls before climbing back up to Grassington along the narrow walled path. The next job was to find somewhere to eat for lunch. We could have bought something from the Spar shop but as there were pubs and tearooms it made sense to try and find something else. We walked around the village having a look at the options before settling on Cobblestones Café. We had seen an offer for a bacon or sausage roll with a cup of tea for a reasonable price on our way to Linton, so it was this we decided on. However, once inside trying to order, it was mysteriously withdrawn as it was now lunch time, not that there was any mention of that fact on their board. So feeling slightly miffed we settled on a cream tea for 2. We were told by the staff that it was big but we were hungry so not a problem. We were supplied with 4 fruit scones which were huge plus butter, cream and jam that would have easily been enough for double that amount of scones. We eagerly tucked in but on getting to the end of the first one each, we realised that the second one would need to wait awhile. We had almost only just swallowed the last mouthful of our first one when the owner came over and suggested that she could wrap the other 2 up for us if we wanted, as she quite often did so, due to the fact that people had trouble finishing them. She appeared to be sincere but it was almost as if she wanted us out so she could re-use the table for more customers. Being a bit flustered we said yes, thinking we could eat them later that afternoon. She asked us whether we wanted butter so we said yes and off she went. She brought them back almost immediately wrapped in foil, so far so good, to a point. Rachel went up to pay at the till, but we then wondered whether we had got the jam and cream as well, bearing in mind we were paying for it and it was cream tea, after all. We hadn’t, they were just buttered. The girl at the till said it was not a problem and she would deal with it. The owner then came out and said it couldn’t be done. The jam and cream had been thrown away so she couldn’t give it to us. She did reluctantly offer to cut the scones open and put jam and cream in them but not separately for us to do. What was the difference in giving us some in some foil as opposed to in the scones? She had thrown ours away, so she said, so it was going to be new anyway. Putting it in some foil would cause her less work, so what was the problem? We declined her offer, as it seemed so ridiculous, and promptly left.

The infamous cream tea

It was very clear she wanted us out as quickly as she could, so she could turn tables and knew that we would in all probability never come back, so she had nothing to lose in being belligerent. This was the first experience we had of Yorkshire people being difficult and although we had heard of this type of behaviour, we hadn’t up till then, experienced it ourselves, despite visiting the county before.

It left a bit of a sour taste (no pun intended) but we were determined that it wouldn’t spoil our day in Grassington.

We sat on a seat in the square watching the world go by but it was getting cold and windy with the odd spot of rain so we wandered around a little more to keep warm and spied out the route, out of the village, for the next day. We got some more supplies to cover us for the next couple of days, before returning to our B&B.


We had booked our meal at The Foresters Arms for 6.30pm again so we still had a chunk of the afternoon left. At the B&B we read the rest of the Saturday paper we had bought in Ilkley and watched a bit of television as well as starting to collect some of our gear together. There was a good selection of books to read and so, all in all, the time passed quickly.

The meal at The Foresters was very good once again. My lamb shoulder just fell off the bone and tasted fantastic, Rachel’s chicken was excellent, and exceptionally moist. Back to the B&B again and we had to get our walking heads back on. A quick look at the forecast for the next day was worrying, as it was for heavy rain all day. We were prepared and had all the gear to keep dry but with the wind it wouldn’t be very nice all the same. We had never really walked in constant heavy rain before so it was with some trepidation that we went to bed. During the night the rain came and woke me up with it hammering on the window which didn’t help my worrying. But that is what long distance walking is all about; you just have to get on with whatever is thrown at you, and we were about to be thrown quite a lot!


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