Coast to Coast
Day Twelve – 3rd May 2011: St Giles Farm to Ingleby Cross – 20 miles
We followed our normal routine in getting ready but we
asked for breakfast at 7.30 due to the mileage we had to
cover. We again had a selection of healthy and not so
healthy for breakfast, although my choice of fry up had
degenerated to a couple of rashers of bacon.
We said our goodbyes and set off not knowing what the day
would bring forth. This wasn’t any different to any other
day, as we could never know what any day would bring, but
this part of the walk had such a negative reputation that we
were a little apprehensive.
We picked up the path and walked next to the river although
this was way below us initially but we soon descended to the
bank and followed it until Catterick Bridge was reached. We
passed the northern end of the racecourse, crossed the
bridge and rejoined the River Swale on its other bank. After
a relatively short while we left the Swale for the last time
and crossed farmland to Bolton on Swale.
Bolton-on-Swale
In one form or another we had been near or alongside the
Swale for many miles over several days, it was a little
strange not to have a river for company. We passed a couple
of places selling drinks and food with honesty boxes which
was very enterprising but with our packs filled to the brim
with supplies, we passed by. We made the obligatory stop to
look at Henry Jenkins memorial in the church yard but didn’t
spend long there, being eager to march on.
So far we felt fine with this part of the journey as it had
a bit of interest around every corner but the road walking
was ahead of us so we would see. We felt good, the weather
was fine with scattered clouds but I did feel that we were
starting to walk on automaton which I suppose was inevitable
as the initial excitement of the first week and the
spectacular scenery of that week receded.
We reached the road section and had already decided that our
first stop of the day would be at Streetlam but that was
some way away so we put best foot forward and got going. The
lanes were very quiet with very little traffic and it was
quite nice to have a firm surface and no route finding to
worry about. Just around a corner we looked into a field and
spotted a very large hare quietly munching on the farmers
crop. We stopped and watched for a couple of minutes before
continuing to Whitwell where we had our first view of the
Cleveland Hills, miles ahead of us. At least we could see
our target, as Ingleby Cross, where we were staying, would
be at the foot of those hills.
We arrived at Streetlam ready for a rest and something to
eat. The road walking had been fine and not as long as
expected although there was more to come. We sat at the side
of the path just after the village in some long grass and
found our stock of goodies in our packs. As it was our first
rest of the day we tarried for a little longer than usual
but at most no more than half an hour. Suitably refreshed we
set off slightly downhill towards West Farm.
Rachel having a break
Danby Wiske
We eventually rejoined the tarmac and headed into Danby
Wiske. Having just had a stop, we declined the pull of the
White Swan, as it seemed a bit uninviting, and continued up
the hill before turning off the road and heading towards
Oaktree Hill. The walking was easy and varied, but we still
had quite a few miles to go. We had seen no one all day
which was strange but since St Bees really, the numbers had
reduced each day and we could only suppose that the drop out
rate accelerates when getting into the second week.
The way took us through a slightly overgrown and narrow path
that had trees and hedges either side which appeared to be a
haven for the whole of North Yorkshire’s mosquito and knat
population. The air was thick with them and great clouds
billowed up into the air as we approached each and every
foot of the path. Once we came out of the confines, they all
mysteriously disappeared, which was a great relief. We could
see the Cleveland Hills quite clearly now which spurred us
on but the mileage was taking its toll and we were getting a
little tired. We decided to have another stop to recharge
but not finding anywhere suitable we continued onwards.
There were more refreshment boxes left out for weary walkers
but we still had plenty of provisions, plus we couldn’t see
the point in lugging our own stores and buying more so we
left them for others that may have been following. Just
before the railway some joker had nailed plastic or rubber
beasties to the stiles across his land which made for a
laugh and a photo opportunity.
Rat
Rabbit
We arrived at the railway line which meant a deep descent to
the line down some steps and then up the other side.
Fortunately the line is straight here so we could see the
trains coming a long way away but even so we didn’t hang
about crossing the line! Once in the field the other side,
we stopped and decided that the field side of the embankment
would make an ideal back rest and so we had found our second
stop of the day. The legs were a bit heavy, but sunshine and
gorging on a feast of goodies meant we were in high spirits.
It was quite difficult to get moving again as the food
hadn’t worked its magic yet but it was also too comfortable
sitting on the bank.
Cleveland Hills
It wasn’t long before the food did kick in and although we
had the best part of a couple of hours to go it gave us a
bit of a lift. There was a fair amount of lane or track
walking which jarred the legs slightly but we soon made it
to the infamous A19 crossing. Originally we were going to
stock up at the services but being only a truck stop we
decided that this was probably too risky which was why we
decided to carry more from Richmond. I think we made the
right decision as there didn’t seem to be much on offer for
the weary walker.
The A19 was a bit of a shock to the system. Although we had
seen and been on roads, none were as noisy or as dangerous
as this one. The M6 was noisy but we had a footbridge to get
us over it, the A19 was a completely different prospect as
we had to run across 4 lanes of traffic and a slip road to
the services. At least there was a central reservation so we
could do it in two bites. In the event we didn’t have to
wait too long for a break in the traffic before charging
across. Safely in the central reservation we could catch our
breath before making a final dash to the other side. All the
same the central reservation is no place to be for any
length of time and traffic travelling at high speed either
side is quite unnerving to say the least. Fortunately there
was another gap that appeared quite quickly on the other
carriageway, so we managed to cross with life and limb
intact.
The final half a mile or so was on roads which after 20
miles wasn’t great but as we had made good time we ambled
down to the Blue Bell Inn at Ingleby Cross, taking it easy.
Water tower in Ingleby Arncliffe
The Blue Bell Inn Ingleby Cross
We could and should have had an extra stop really but when
you have 20 miles ahead of you everything points to just
getting on with it. The up side was that we had time to
relax before having our meal. We went into the pub and were
given a warm welcome before being shown to our room which
was in an annexe to the side of the pub. The room was very
basic and the fittings and fixtures not great and past their
best, but it was a bed for the night. It was the worst
accommodation of the trip but just about acceptable. I would
choose somewhere else next time but still eat at the pub.
Some had mentioned that the steaks were very good quality
and very cheap so we were looking forward to a nice steak
and chips when we entered the pub having sorted ourselves
out. The menu was a little disappointing but we did
eventually decide on the steak. The prices are certainly not
cheap anymore, just normal pub prices but the steak was
phenomenally good, so as I say, I would return for the food.
After our meal we returned to our room and decided that
although it was still quite early we would go to bed as we
had had a long day and the rest would do us good. The
following day was much shorter, just to Clay Bank Top but we
were in for a surprise, in more ways than one.
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